Two leaves and a tastebud: How to taste

When most people think of a professional tea taster's job, they probably picture Victorian women with fancy hats, sitting in front of rows of porcelain teapots on doilies. Or guys in white labcoats, bouncing off the walls from caffeine overdose. In reality, this practice is neither glamorous nor exasperating. In fact, it is relatively simple, sensory and unrefined.

In this lesson, we'll bring taste to the forefront. We'll explore the many different tastes of tea and the terminology created to explain them. By the end of this article, you'll be equipped with the knowledge to taste tea like a pro- in your own home.

Before we begin tasting, you'll need the necessary paraphernalia. Obviously, you'll need teas, water (good quality, of course-no tap water!), a kettle, teapot and cups. However, you'll also need an accurate teaspoon or scale. When making tea to enjoy, a little is miscalculation is acceptable. When preparing tea as a taster, though, precision is of the utmost importance. Also, choose wisely when choosing teaware. Color and leaf size are important factors to judge teas on, so clear glass cups and pots are most advantageous.

Try to pick teas that are of a similar variety and grade (for example, three BOP Ceylons). Having these teas clearly labeled will avoid confusion when conclusions are reached. Steep all teas under the same conditions (same amount of time, water temperature and volume). Even if you usually take your tea with milk (shudder to think), lemon or sugar, please leave these out-these will mask the more subtle nuances that will help differentiate the quality. You want only the true flavor of the tea during a tasting.

Finally, have a sink (or, if you are a resident of the Wild West, a spittoon) nearby. Contrary to popular belief, tea tasters do not actually drink the tea-then they'd be called "tea drinkers" (not to mention the fact that they'd be frequent visitors of the restroom and caffeine-crazed maniacs). Instead, they rely on the sensations registered from both their tastebuds and their sense of smell.

Now to the tasting. If you don't know what to look for, during a tea tasting you'll be as lost as a fish dropped in the wrong ocean. Luckily, we've got your compass.

Once the teas have steeped (correctly, according to the specific directions for each type), allow to cool slightly. Remember, your tastebuds are sensitive, and you don't want to burn them before tasting all the teas! When teas are safely potable, take up a spoon. This is when you should employ the "Elementary School cafeteria" technique, slurping tea loudly so that the liquid sprays throughout the mouth. This allows the flavor to fill the mouth, striking all areas of the tongue as well as the bottom of the nasal cavity (keep in mind, a good portion of taste comes from smell).

Here are some of the qualities to look for:

Does it have an enticing aroma? The nose is much more sensitive and can often detect minute details that the mouth fails to notice.

Does the flavor have depth? Even the lightest of White Teas should have some body, something that gives it character. Most importantly, does this flavor have stamina? Is there just a glimpse of character, or does the flavor linger on the tongue?

What about the quality of flavor? Is it pleasantly crisp, fresh on the tip of your tongue and clearly defined?

You should have a small notebook handy to record your first impressions of the tea. Try to avoid using words like "good" or "gross." These are fairly unspecific and will not help differentiate teas afterwards. If you are at a loss for words, try comparing the teas to other tastes. For example, "grassy" is acceptable terminology (in fact, it is very applicable -and not necessarily negative- way to describe some green and oolong teas).

With experience, you'll notice that the depth of taste expands. For example, the first time you tried green tea, all that you could probably taste was a "spinachy" flavor. But upon further tastings, more subtle nuances were discovered.

Probably the most critical aspect of tasting has yet to be discussed: does it taste good to you? Ultimately, unless you are looking to begin working for a Tea Company (which is not recommended), the goal of tasting is to find the ideal cup to fit your palate. It is an attainable goal, and the journey to discovery will make many fond tea memories!

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