Making the Grade: Measuring tea quality

Large leaf

Different leaves

SFTGFOP1

While it may appear that the company cat just tap-danced on the keyboard, this seemingly random group of letters and number is actually a grade of tea. In fact, there are dozens of different classifications of the quality of tea, most with their own modifiers and addendums. These are usually boasted on the packages of most gourmet tea companies. However, to most consumers, this is almost completely nonsensical. In this lesson, we'll discuss how these grades are determined, what they mean and how to apply them to your tea life.

Tea grading is a confusing and commonly misunderstood subject. Most folks think that a high grade tea will be superior to a medium grade. While this may be true, it is far from guaranteed.

The problems with tea grading run wide and deep. First of all, the grades of tea are not standardized worldwide and may vary according to the country of origin. The leaf grades result exclusively from the last stage of production. The grades pay no attention to other factors, such as the climate of the region, soil quality, storage, etc. These categories simply indicate the different leaf sizes and relative "tippyness" (content of the unopened leaf buds). This is an important realization, in that it means a tea's grade does not necessarily indicate good flavor or quality. It is only a measure of how good the leaf looks.

When grading most whole leaf teas, they usually start with the name of the leaf, Pekoe (P). The lowest grade of tea is PS (Pekoe Souchong) which then graduates to BOP (sorry Charlie Parker fans-this means Broken Orange Pekoe), then to OP (Orange Pekoe*), then FOP (Flowery Orange Pekoe)... ad nauseum. Then, graders will add modifiers such as GFOP (Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe) which is "even better." After that, even more letters are added, signifying even higher quality. The example we started with actually stands for Special Finest Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe 1.

*As a side note, this is also were we get the famous term Orange Pekoe- pronounced 'Peck-o.' Orange Pekoe actually has nothing to do with oranges or orange flavor. This is a very common misunderstanding. It is merely a classification of leaf size.

There are two other terms that are always thrown around when talking about tea grading: Orthodox and CTC. These are different ways in which the tea is harvested and processed. The Orthodox method requires hand plucking of the top two leaves and the inner bud during harvest and hand-rolling of the leaves during processing. CTC, on the other hand, employs the use of machinery to do this labor-intensive work. While tea leaves that are produced from the Orthodox method tend to be larger, this does not by any means conclude that all Orthodox teas are better than CTC. In fact, there are many CTC-produced teas that have larger leaves than Orthodox.

We should also pause for a moment to note that technology has come a long way. While tea picking is still done primarily by hand for orthodox teas, few teas from larger gardens or estates are actually rolled by hand. That said, the process still requires a true artisan. Differences in the leaf, temperature, humidity, and altitude will all change the resulting product. A true tea master will keep a close eye on any automated processes and make adjustments where necessary to get the most out of those tender shoots.

The above grading terms are usually applied to black teas from India and Sri Lanka (and a few Chinese teas). To add another complication to the system, there are completely different gradations for Oolong, Green and White teas.

While the grading of Oolong, Green and White teas is a little more subtle and less structured than that of black teas, it is actually slightly more helpful. Unlike black teas, the grading of green tea has a definite relationship with the quality and flavor of the tea. However, when considering the grade, you should keep in mind it is the subjective opinion of the taster, and this grade may not be as suited for your tastes as a tea deemed lower grade. Of course, each country has to grade their White, Green and Oolong teas differently as well, with their own set of complicated terminology. To keep it simple, these are generally recognized as: Extra Choicest, Choicest, Choice, Finest Fine, Good Medium, Medium, Good Common, Common, Nubs, Dust and Fannings.

While all grades mentioned in this lesson hold some validity, they should be seen under the shade of skepticism. Put simply, you should keep in mind that, while "size matters," there are many other factors that are involved that influence the overall quality. Let the grade be a rough guide as to what teas MAY be better than others. Through this perspective, you will be able to blaze your own path in finding the best teas.